Means for producing moire effects on fabrics



INVENTOR.

ATTRNEYS 4 Sheets-Sheet l G BERGER MEANS FOR PRODUCING MOIRE EFFECTS ON FABRICS Flled June 6, 1936 Ewe 31,1939. 6. BERGER MEANS FOR PRODUCING MOIRE EFFECTS ON FABRICS Filed June 6, 1936 4 Sheets-Sheet 2 NEE-i: ll

INVENTOR.

G502 651351965? w w a ATTORNEYS 31, 1939. G. BERGER y fi MEANS FOR PRODUCING MOIBE EFFECTS ON FABRICS Filed June 6, 1936 4 Sheets-Sheet 5 I E 4 a 3 LL mnw IHIH I" mmm mmm

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L Hm!!! I N VENTOR. E02 GESBEE @E/Q ATTORNEYS MW 31, 139. G. BERGER MEANS FOR PRODUCING MOIRE EFFECTS ON FABRICS Filed June 6, 1956 4 Sheets-Sheet 4 Vil /ll] all,

INVENTOR; .E E1? GEE.

, ATTORNEYS Patented .Fan. 31, 1939 TET OlQE MEANS FOR PRODUGING MOIRE EFFECTS ON FABRICS 1 Claim.

This invention relates to means for producing moire effects on fabrics.

Moire effects may be produced on a fabric after the latter has been woven by passing the fabric between two rollers provided with grooves and ridges which shift the relative positions of the Weft threads and thereby produce a moire effect.

Similar moire effects may be produced by shifting the weft threads of the fabric in the course of the weaving.

The present invention refers to devices which produce moire effects on fabrics in the course of the weaving process, and one of the objects of this invention is the provision of a comparatively simple and inexpensive means, through the use of which it is possible to produce a fabric having permanent and effective moire effects.

Another object is the provision of a loom comprising a reed of such form that moire effects are produced in a fabric woven upon the loom, and that the breaking of the weft threads shifted by said reed to create the moire effects is effectively prevented.

A further object is the provision of a loom having a lay supporting a reed which is reciprocable relatively to the reed, said reed being provided with means producing permanent and effective moire effects upon the fabric manufactured by the loom.

The above and other objects of the present invention may be realized through the provision of a reed, the teeth of which are provided with cutout portions form d upon that surface of the reed which contacts the weft threads, and constituting a moire pattern, said reed being carried by the lay and being vertically reciprocable relativeiy thereto so that the entire pattern is reproduced upon the fabric in the course'of its weaving.

The invention will appear more clearly from the following detailed description when taken in connection with the accompanying drawings showing by way of example a preferred embodiment of the inventive idea.

In the drawings:-

Figure l is partly a side elevation of and partly a section a reed and'a device for rec'procating the said reed and said device tuting a part of a loom structure;

Figure 2 shows the same device in elevation, looking the direction of the arrow 2 shown in Figure 1;

Figure 3 shows the teeth of a reed on a greatly enlarged scale;

Figure 4 is a vertical section along the line l lof Figure 3 looking in the direction of the arrows;

Figure 5 is a horizontal section along the line 5-5 of Figure 3;

Figures 6, '7, and 8 are horizontal sections along 5 the lines 6-6, 'liand 8-3, respectively, of Figure 3, on a smaller scale and illustrating an additional number of teeth of the reed.

Figure 9 shows onlani enlarged scale a portion of the reed frame; 10

Figure 10 is a vertical section through portions of the reed frame, on an enlargedscale.

The warp threads H and i2; shown in Figure 1, form the fabric itjointly withthe weft threads l3 shown in Figure'5. l5

The-weft threads are passed through the shed by means of a shuttle which isnot shown in the drawings, and which is carried by the lay l5 (Figure 1) supported by the lay sword iii-mounted upon the pivot ll. The lay l5 andthe lay sword it are moved back and forth aroundthe pivot ll by a mechanism of the usual type which is not shown in the drawings and which actuates the lay arm 88 connected by the pin LB with the lay sword. Iii.

The reed 2!] which is carried by the lay l 5 comprises a plurality of teeth 2! which will be described in greater detail hereinafter, and which are carried by the reed frame 22.

The lower portion of the reed frame 22 comprises a downwardly-projecting extension piece 23 which carries a pivot or pin 24. The upper end of the vertical connecting rod 25 is mounted upon the pin 24. The lower end 25a of the connecting rod 25 is somewhat bent in relation to the main portion of the latter and is mounted upon a pivot 25 which is carried by one end of the lever 21. The opposite end of the lever 21 is carried by a pivot 28 which is supported by the frame 29 of the loom. 40

The lever 2i carries a pin 30 situated intermediate its ends. One end of the link BI is mounted upon the pin 3%. The opposite end of the link 3i carries a bolt 32 which extends through an arcuate opening 33 formed in the lever 34, and carries a nut 35.

The position of the link 38 relatively to the lever 34 may be conveniently adjusted by means of the nut 35 and the bolt 32.

The opposite end of the lever 34 is carried by a pin 36 supported by the hub 31.

A pin or axle 38 is carried by the lever 34 and is situated intermediate its ends. The axle 38 carries a rotatable roller 39. i

The roller 39 is incontact with a cam til. Ob-

viously, any suitable pattern wheel may be used in lieu of the cam 40.

The cam is firmly connected and rotatable with a gear wheel 4| which is rotatably mounted upon a shaft 42 carried by the frame 29. The teeth of the gear wheel 4| mesh with the teeth of a pinion 43, which is firmly connected with a shaft 45. Another gear wheel 45 is also firmly connected with the shaft 44 so that rotation of the gear wheel 45 is transmitted to the pinion 43.

A pawl 46 is in engagement with the teeth of the wheel 45. The pawl 46 is carried by a vertical lever 47, the lower end of which is rotatably mounted upon the shaft 44.

Any suitable resilient means not shown in the drawings may be connected with the pawl 46 to enable the pawl to turn the wheel 45 to the extent of tooth when the lever 4'! is swung in the direction of the arrow 46 and to enable the pawl 46 to move over the adjacent tooth in the course of the return movement of the lever 41.

The lever 41 is provided with an extension piece 58 which is connected by a spring 59 to the frame.

The upper end of the lever 41 has a vertical slot 49, through which extends a bolt 50 which is connected with the rod 5|. A nut 52 is screwed upon the bolt 50.

The rod 5| is reciprocated in the directions of the arrow 52 by a jacquard mechanism which is not shown in the drawings. 7

The device is provided with a brake 53 which is pivotally mounted at 54 on the frame of the loom and which is pressed by a spring 55 against the brake drum 56. The spring 55 it attached to a rod 5! connected to the frame of the loom.

The rod 5| is reciprocated in the direction of the arrow 52 and causes an oscillation of the lever 47 around the shaft 44. The pawl 46 will move along with the lever 4! and will turn the wheel 45 in the direction of the arrow 48. In the course of the return movement of the lever 41 the pawl 46 slides over a tooth of the wheel 45 so that the gear wheel 45 is rotated in one direction by the oscillating movement of the lever 41.

The pinion 43 rotates along with the gear wheel 65 and drives the gear wheel 4| which is rotated along with the cam 40. The roller 39 is maintained in engagement with the cam 45 by the link 3|.

As shown in Figure 1, the shape of the cam 40 is such that the roller 39 is caused to move downwardly and upwardly when following the surface of the cam 40, thereby causing an oscillation of the lever 34 around its pivot 36. The lever 34 is moved along with the link 3|, so that the reciprocatory movement of the lever 34 is transmitted by the link 3| to the lever 21 and the connecting rod 25 which is connected with the frame 22 of the reed. Consequently, in the described construction, the jacquard mechanism or the pattern mechanism actuating the rod 5| is used for reciprocating step by step the reed 20 in a vertical direction.

The moire effect of a fabric manufactured by the loom shown in Figures 1 and 2 is produced by cut-out portions provided upon the teeth 2| of the reed. These cut-out portions are illustrated on a larger scale in Figures 3 to 8 of the drawings.

As shown in Figures 3 and 4, each of the teeth 2| has a cut-out portion 66 of different dimensions, the cut-out portion 66b of the tooth 2|b being considerably smaller than the width of the cut-out portion 60a of the tooth 2|a. In actual practice the length of the tooth 2 la may be about four and a half inches. Then the length of the greatest cut-out portion 60a may be about threeeighths of an inch and its depth about one eighth of an inch. The teeth situated between the teeth 2|a and 2|b have cut-out portions of different dimensions, the length and depth of these cut-out portions being smaller than that of the portion 660. and greater than that of the portion 60b. The cut-out portions of the teeth 2|, when these teeth are placed one next to the other upon the frame 22, form geometrical figures such as an ellipse or any other figure which reproduced in the fabric.

Figure 3 shows the cut-out portions of the teeth 2| of the reed 20 as they appear in front elevation, while Figure 4 shows some of these teeth as they would appear when examined from the side. The bottom of each cut-out portion has the form of an arc, the arc of each tooth being different from the arc of the adjacent tooth.

An important feature of the teeth 2| is that the edges 5| and 62 of each of their cut-out portions 66 extend at right angles to the side surfaces of the teeth. Practical experience has shown that in such case there is less danger that the weft thread I3, when pressed against the teeth 2| will be damaged or cut by the edges 6| and 62.

The gradual bending of the weft threads which results in the moire effect is illustrated diagrammatically in Figures 6 to 8. As has been described already, the reed is moved step by step upwardly and downwardly by the mechanism shown in Figures 1 and 2. The filler is shot across the shed when the reed 2E3 is at a standstill in the interval between two movements.

When the weft thread |3a (Figure 6) is situated opposite that portion of the reed which is indicated by the line 6-6 of Figure 3, the weft thread |3a pressed against the reed, acquires only a slight curvature, as indicated diagrammatically in Figure 6. When the reed is somewhat raised in relation to the lay |5, the weft thread |3b (Figure 7) will assume the position indicated diagrammatically by the line in Figure. 3, and when the weft thread 3b is pressed against the cut-out portions 60 of the teeth 2| it will be curved somewhat more than the preceding weft thread, as indicated in Figure 7. When the reed is raised still higher, so that the weft thread |3a (Figure 8) will assume the position indicated by the line 8-8 in Figure 3, the curvature of the weft thread |3c will be still greater, as indicated in Figure 8. The maximum curvature of the thread obtainable through the use of the cut-out portion 60 provided in the teeth 2| is shown in Figure 5 of the drawings.

As the reed moves still further the curvature of the subsequent weft threads will be gradually diminished until the reed reaches a position, in which all of the lower edges 62 of the cut-out portions 6|! are situated above the weft thread. Then the weft threads will extend in a straight line across the shed and no moire effects will be produced upon the fabric.

The reed 2i! should be reciprocated to such an extent that in its hi hest position all of the lower edges 62 are situated above the weft thread, while in its lowest position all of the upper edges 6| of the cut-out portions 66 are situated below the weft threads. Then a complete moire design will be reproduced upon the fabric.

A preferred device for spacing the teeth 2| of the reed upon the reed frame 22 is illustrated on .frame 22.

a larger scale in Figures 9 and 10. Two bars 65 and 65 are placed over the teeth 2| adjacent the upper portion 2% of the frame 22. A wire 61 is wound around the bars 65 and 66 in such manner that it serves as a distancing member separating the teeth 2| one from the other and maintaining them in their proper relation upon the Similar bars 68 and 69 are situated at the lower end of the frame and carry a wire If! which is wound around the bars 68 and 69. The bars 65, 66, 68 and 69 are firmly connected with the frame 22, as shown in Figure 10, the teeth 2! may extend through the entire frame and be permanently connected therewith by soldering or the like.

After a fabric has been manufactured by the described means it is passed through heated calender rollers in the usual manner. It is possible to provide moire effects only upon one half of the fabric, then to fold that half over the other half which has no moire effects, and pass the folded fabric through the heated calendar rollers. The moire effect of the first half will then be reproduced upon the other half of the fabric.

What is claimed is:

A device for vertically reciprocating a reed, particularly a reed adapted to produce moire effects upon fabrics, said device comprising a substantially vertical lever, a shaft rotatably supporting the lower end of said lever, reciprocating means adjustably connected with the upper end of said lever to oscillate the same, a gear wheel firmly connected with said shaft, means carried by said lever and engaging said gear wheel to rotate the latter in one direction in the course of the oscillation of said lever, another gear wheel firmly connected with said shaft, a third gear wheel meshing with the second-mentioned gear wheel, a substantially horizontal lever connected with said shaft, means pivotally supporting one end of said horizontal lever, another shaft rotatably supporting the third-mentioned gear wheel, a cam firmly connected with the third-mentioned gear wheel, a roller rotatably mounted in said horizontal lever and engaging said cam, another substantially horizontal lever, the second-mentioned shaft being connected with the secondmentioned horizontal lever, means pivotally supporting one end of the second-mentioned horizontal lever, means adjustably connecting the opposite end of the first-mentioned horizontal lever with the unpivoted end of the second-mentioned horizontal lever, whereby the oscillations of said vertical lever cause oscillations of said two horizontal levers, and a substantially vertical connecting rod having a lower end connected with said unpivoted end of the second-mentioned horizontal lever and having an upper end adapted to be connected to said reed, whereby the oscillations of the second-mentioned horizontal lever are transformed into a vertical reciprocatory motion of said connecting rod.

GEORGES BERGER. 

